Patina after cleaning

What is the difference between “new” patina on a cleaned coins VS an uncleaned patina? Can I ask you for pictures with some examples? 

In case that I  have a cleaned coin and wanted to retone in (naturaly!!! over time), is it a good idea to take the coin from a capsule and put in in a pocket, where it can oxidize? Your opinion?

CzechLord

What is the difference between “new” patina on a cleaned coins VS an uncleaned patina? Can I ask you for pictures with some examples? 

 

In case that I  have a cleaned coin and wanted to retone in (naturaly!!! over time), is it a good idea to take the coin from a capsule and put in in a pocket, where it can oxidize? Your opinion?

The main difference between an original patina and a ‘new’ patina will be the hairlines on the surface of the coin. The coin will also have an unnatural shine to it, and the lustre will not cartwheel. It is hard to explain, but once you have seen enough coins, you will be able to tell if the coin has been ‘historically cleaned’, even. 

I have an example of a cleaned coin retoned, I hope it is what you are looking for. This is the only coin I have ever ‘tried to’ tone.
 

Here is a cleaned Australian 1925/3 shilling. You can see the surface hairlines. This coin is not worth much above melt cleaned, so I decided to leave it in a specific environment to tone for a couple of years, just to make it more visually appealing. 

And a couple of years (!) later, it looks like this.

It is ultimately your decision if you wish to take it out of the capsule to tone. It is certainly possible, if you are after that. I will leave it to you to decide if it is ‘artificially’ or ‘naturally’ toned, but I hope this is what you are looking for.

IM94

CzechLord

What is the difference between “new” patina on a cleaned coins VS an uncleaned patina? Can I ask you for pictures with some examples? 

 

In case that I  have a cleaned coin and wanted to retone in (naturaly!!! over time), is it a good idea to take the coin from a capsule and put in in a pocket, where it can oxidize? Your opinion?

The main difference between an original patina and a ‘new’ patina will be the hairlines on the surface of the coin. The coin will also have an unnatural shine to it, and the lustre will not cartwheel. It is hard to explain, but once you have seen enough coins, you will be able to tell if the coin has been ‘historically cleaned’, even. 

I have an example of a cleaned coin retoned, I hope it is what you are looking for. This is the only coin I have ever ‘tried to’ tone.
 

Here is a cleaned Australian 1925/3 shilling. You can see the surface hairlines. This coin is not worth much above melt cleaned, so I decided to leave it in a specific environment to tone for a couple of years, just to make it more visually appealing. 

 

And a couple of years (!) later, it looks like this.

It is ultimately your decision if you wish to take it out of the capsule to tone. It is certainly possible, if you are after that. I will leave it to you to decide if it is ‘artificially’ or ‘naturally’ toned, but I hope this is what you are looking for.

Thank you! I have a plan to remove it from a capsule and put it in a pocket. I hope breathing and air will do something after years in a pocket. Will it work?

Yes, I do the same. 

but be carefull  do not add contact marks, do not keep harder coins and keys like steel or nickel in the same pocket.

 I also have recovering cleaned coins in an open tray in the attic. 

You could just place it in an envelope with a sulfur content and then Leave it in a window…no need to carry it around..

I do agree an envelope is the way to go, I have seen coins from the 50s in coin dealer’s envelopes that have developed some nice toning. There was a discussion about it a few years back on another forum, namely:

https://www.cointalk.com/threads/envelope-toning.200888/

That shilling previously shown in this thread was left in between the pages of an old book for a few years. 

Mr. Midnight

Yes, I do the same. 

 

but be carefull  do not add contact marks, do not keep harder coins and keys like steel or nickel in the same pocket.

 

 I also have recovering cleaned coins in an open tray in the attic. 

 

Is it generally a good idea to retone cleaned coins?

CzechLord

Mr. Midnight

Yes, I do the same. 

 

but be carefull  do not add contact marks, do not keep harder coins and keys like steel or nickel in the same pocket.

 

 I also have recovering cleaned coins in an open tray in the attic. 

 

Is it generally a good idea to retone cleaned coins?

The patina can be very beautifull indeed, but keep in mind it is the beginning of the end of the coin….

CzechLord

Mr. Midnight

Yes, I do the same. 

 

but be carefull  do not add contact marks, do not keep harder coins and keys like steel or nickel in the same pocket.

 

 I also have recovering cleaned coins in an open tray in the attic. 

 

Is it generally a good idea to retone cleaned coins?

the damage is done, so I think some color is better than plain white.

keep in mind it is the beginning of the end of the coin…." - what does it mean? yvon

CzechLord

Mr. Midnight

Yes, I do the same. 

 

but be carefull  do not add contact marks, do not keep harder coins and keys like steel or nickel in the same pocket.

 

 I also have recovering cleaned coins in an open tray in the attic. 

 

Is it generally a good idea to retone cleaned coins?

The patina can be very beautifull indeed, but keep in mind it is the beginning of the end of the coin….

Not on silver. patina is a 1 molecule thick passive layer. 

It is not a progressive disease, like rust on iron.

Do you actually realize what nonsense you are writing here?

Carry coins in your pocket to catch the patina. How long?      30 years 50 years in your pocket?   And you don't want to speed it up?

Why not buy old men's underwear that had a back pocket at the bazaar,  put a coin in your pocket and don't wash or shower for half a year.

Colleagues don't be crazy - logic, look at e-bay and other sites selling coins and observe - how many coins have an artificial patina.

Black from syrans to brown from tar and sand from glue-chalk and applied with beeswax.

I don't want to show it here, it would just increase the amount of modified artificial coins in the market. But believe me, they are direct factories for cleaning coins and toning them and even cutting letters for Roman coins, etc.

What about vegetable oils and the sun in the window - how does it affect the coin?

If there is huge interest, I will show you the patina in 5 seconds on silver.

Ivan

Yes, the plan is for how it will look over 50 years. 

I will like it better than having it look like it was cleaned yesterday. 

which I suppose  is what will happen by sealing it up in a plastic 2x2.