I just stared entering my collection and noticed that some coins have the word "proof" to the right of the thought bubble. I tried to click it but it isn't a link. I'm just curious as to what it means.
also, some coins have a common print and under it, the same coin listed again but with a lesser amount made. If there are no exceptions listed in the description how do I tell the difference?
- my example would be a 1934 florin from New Zealand
Thanks for the help ! I just found my collection from 20 yrs ago and looking them up is great fun
Proofs are not meant to circulate and so get treated as separate varieties from the circulating coins. From Wikipedia:
"Proof coinage means special early samples of a coin issue, historically made for checking the dies and for archival purposes, but nowadays often struck in greater numbers specially for coin collectors (numismatists). Nearly all countries have issued proof coinage.[1]
Preparation of a proof striking usually involved polishing of the dies. They can usually be distinguished from normal circulation coins by their sharper rims and design, as well as much smoother "fields" – the blank areas not part of the coin's design.
The dies for making modern proof coins are often treated with chemicals to make certain parts of the design take on a frosted appearance, with the polished fields taking on a mirror finish. Several other methods have been used in the past to achieve this effect, including sand blasting the dies, and matte proofs. Proof coins of the early 19th century even appear to be scratched, but it was part of the production process. The term "proof" refers to the process by which the coins are made and not to the condition of the coin. Certification agencies can grade and assign numerical ratings for proof coins. A PR70 coin is the highest grade possible for a proof coin and indicates a perfect example, with PR69 and lower grades reflecting some deficiency in the strike, centering, details, or other aspect of the coin.
Most proof coins are double struck under higher pressure. This does not normally result in doubling that is readily observable, but does result in the devices being struck fully. After being struck, they are separately and individually handled, in contrast to normal coins which are thrown into bins."
Wording in Numista catalogue is merely to separate proof entries from circulating entries. Proofs should be easy to identify.
Modern proofs are easy to identify because of the frosted design, perfectly illustrated above. On earlier, say pre 1970s, coins it's a bit more tricky especially if they have been mishandled. There's a more complete discussion of the subject below -
To which I would only add that if all else fails take a close look at the way the letters in the legend are formed. A regular strike on worn dies will produce a cross section with a rounded top, like a loaf of bread whereas a proof will have a rectangle form with crisp, sharp corners.
Non illegitimis carborundum est. Excellent advice for all coins.
Make Numismatics Great Again!
Thank you all for the clarification. My eyes are going crossed as I try to see all of the lettering. The camera on my phone is turning out to be a great magnifying agent
When I was a new collector, I did not know what proof meant. It took me so long to search, but I did not find an answer. Then I decided to buy a proof Lithuanian 2 euro cent coin and I finally found out that the coin was not black, was not weirdly colored, it was just as shiny as a mirror.
